One time I made a hyaluronic acid serum in my kitchen, then I made a niacinamide moisturizer. I’m a big fan of DIY kitchen combinations (as you can probably tell by now!). One of the most asked questions I got about those recipes was how to combine the two active ingredients.
This HA and niacinamide moisturizer does just that. You get all the hydrating benefits of HA and the skin-enhancing benefits of niacinamide in one convenient moisturizer.
Marrying Hyaluronic Acid and Niacinamide
Niacinamide is a water-soluble form of vitamin B3. We need it in our diet, but it also has some impressive skin benefits. Research has found that niacinamide can help with hyperpigmentation to even out skin tone. Some studies show that it improves the skin barrier and the symptoms of rosacea.
It also reduces moisture loss and improves acne and blemishes. A 2005 study found that women who applied niacinamide to the skin had significant skin benefits. They had better skin, fewer lines and wrinkles, and better elasticity.
Our skin naturally contains hyaluronic acid (HA) and it is a major component of our skin and dermal metabolism. HA plays an important role in wound healing and tissue repair and promotes growth.
Both hyaluronic acid and niacinamide add moisture to the skin, reduce inflammation and regenerate collagen. They complement each other well and are often combined or layered together. Hyaluronic acid is a great humectant, while niacinamide improves overall skin health.
Many Ingredients for Skin
Although hyaluronic acid and niacinamide are active ingredients, they need a little help to be a moisturizer. I chose a combination of oils, shea butter, beeswax and water that makes the skin feel soft and moisturized.
Company fuel – this gives a lot of lotion. Sweet almonds, grape seeds, olives, or avocados are other good options. I love avocado and olive oil for dry skin types.
Shea butter – Smooth and creamy, shea butter is full of essential fatty acids, moisturizes the skin, and reduces inflammation.
Hydrosol or distilled water – This helps reduce oiliness and combines with HA and water-soluble niacinamide. Hydrosols are plant waters left over from the distillation of essential oils. They provide many of the same skin benefits but are much gentler on the skin.
Tamanu oil – Tamanu has a dark, rich color and is ideal for acne-prone or aging skin. It has skin rejuvenating properties and is rich in antioxidants. If you don’t have any, jojoba, apricot kernel, or any other skin oil will work. The idea is to give the cream an extra boost of concentrated active ingredients.
Adding Essential Oils
I love adding essential oils to my DIY products. Not only do they smell great but they are antimicrobial, improve skin health, and elevate mood. Some of my favorite essential oils for skin include lavender, wild orange, frankincense, and geranium.
Essential oils are diluted to about 2% in this recipe, but you can cut the amount in half if you have sensitive skin.
Tips for Making a Hyaluronic Acid and Niacinamide Moisturizer
I tend to stick to oil-based “lubricants” like my favorite basic recipe. Although they are not technically a lotion since they are water-free, they are long-lasting. That won’t work for this recipe even though both hyaluronic acid and niacinamide are water soluble, not fat soluble.
Unfortunately, water-based products have a very short shelf life. This moisturizer combines the best of both worlds and makes the most of oils, waxes, and butters with just enough water to dissolve the active ingredients. Water also helps it loosen up on the skin for better absorption.
I also chose some emulsifying wax to help bind the water and oil together. Without it the moisturizer breaks down and becomes ineffective. Beeswax helps thicken the lotion, but is not a substitute for emulsifying wax.
An Important Note on Preservatives
Since this recipe includes water, it needs a preservative. Bacteria can start growing in water within minutes under the right conditions. By storing the item properly, using distilled water (or better yet, hydrosol), and a preservative, it greatly increases shelf life.
Leucidal Plus is a good broad spectrum preservative that I have used before. Many people ask about using rosemary extract or vitamin E instead, but those are not preservatives. They help reduce oxidation and maintain the shelf life of the oil, but they will not prevent bacteria from growing in the water.
If you do not want to use a preservative, store the oil in the refrigerator and use it within two weeks. That being said, a preservative is a safe option.
Here’s how to do it!
Hyaluronic Acid and Niacinamide Moisturizer
This silky smooth lotion helps soften the skin and seal in moisture. And it doesn’t feel greasy!
Reveal: 4 ounces
-
In the top of a double boiler add: shea butter, tamanu, avocado oil, emulsifying wax, and beeswax. Heat over medium heat until completely melted, stirring occasionally.
-
Add water or hydrosol, niacinamide powder, Leucidal Plus, and hyaluronic acid powder to another bowl and whisk to combine. Set aside.
-
Once the oil-based ingredients have dissolved, pour the mixture into the bowl of a stand mixer. Chill in the fridge for about 10 minutes or until firm, but not frozen.
-
Add essential oils. Using the whisk attachment on your mixer, beat the oil-based ingredients until smooth, creamy, and white.
-
Gradually add the water mixture to the mixer as it whisks. Mix for about 1 minute or until well combined.
-
Pour the lotion into a clean jar.
This recipe is versatile. Use your favorite skin-friendly oils and carrier oils to customize skin benefits!
Shelf Life and Storage
Like any skincare product this needs to be kept away from direct light and heat. Go near a hot shower or in the car! Also, be sure to use clean, dry hands when removing any jar to help prevent contamination.
You can store the lotion in a pump lotion bottle or a squeeze bottle with a large enough opening. This helps reduce any germs from the hands that get into the jar.
What are some of your favorite DIY skincare things to do? Leave a comment and let us know!
